The Unexpected Face of Southern Chic

Northern Seoul retains old royal palaces, national museums, occasional clusters of traditional Korean houses, and quite a few universities. What, then, is in southern Seoul? Upon hearing the word “Gangnam,” referring to the southern part of Seoul, most Koreans automatically think of a place like Daechi-dong or Dogok-dong, where privileged private educational institutes have driven up housing prices and induced the building of high-rise apartment complexes since the 1980s. As far as fashion and trends are concerned, however, southern Seoul can be best summed up by a triangle zone formed by three subway stations—Sinsa, Apgujeong, and Cheongdam. And the Dosan Memorial Park, which lies at the heart of the triangle, is the latest “it” area, with boutique shops, galleries, high-end restaurants and cafés sprouting up around it.

Dosan Memorial Park

The history of the park does not bear much relevance to the mostly Western upmarket brand shops that are beginning to surround it. Dosan Memorial Park was built in 1973 to commemorate Ahn Chang-ho (1878—1938), regarded as a great patriot who toiled for the nation’s independence and sovereignty. His pen name of “Dosan” has also been given to Dosan Road, the ten-lane avenue linking Cheongdam-dong and Nonhyeon-dong. The park houses Ahn’s tomb, memorial statue and monument stones, as well as a memorial hall that provides a glimpse into the life of a man who emphasized the role of enlightenment and education to strengthen the nation and ultimately gain independence from Japanese colonial rule.

Trendspotting

Scores of clinics dot Dosan Road, although many—plastic surgery clinics, dental clinics and dermatology clinics—are more for accommodating the trends du jour than for healing illnesses. If you approach the memorial park from the Dosan Road side, you may find the area rather dull at first, as the big road looks barren but for a few foreign car exhibition spaces and office buildings.

When you start exploring the smaller roads leading to the park, however, flagship stores for such familiar designer names as Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs, and Ann Demeulemeester appear, as well as some local brands like Kolon FnC’s Series Corner. True, the number of design shops here pales in comparison to those nestled in nearby Cheongdam-dong, but the fact that these shops opened here within less than a year testifies to up-and-comingness of the area. These flagship stores often house cozy cafés or artsy galleries alongside quality displays, so if you can overlook some irritatingly unaffordable price tags, window-shopping in this area could be quite a fulfilling experience.

Maison Hermès Dosan Park, which opened way back in 2007, may deserve a special mention. It is reportedly one of a mere four such comprehensive stores worldwide for the global brand. Hermès commands a loyal following among Korean women with its fashionable purses and scarves, and its maison is located on the road leading up to the main gate of the Dosan Park.

The brand has established itself as a sort of Maecenas, too, giving away annual art awards to a crop of talented contemporary Korean artists. The winners’ works are on display in a gallery on the third floor. At the basement level, Café Madang offers shelves of books from various countries, including a corner for children’s books.

Brunch Paradise

The Dosan Park area first gained a reputation as a brunch heaven rather than a fashion street. The café “Walking Slowly,” which has now moved closer to Cheongdam-dong and opened branches in northern Seoul as well, started the trend here with its “slow food” menu. In the wake of the café came a horde of brunch and dining places—Gran Ciel, My Ssong, Ceci Cera and Bless Kitchen, to name but a few. While slightly varying in their main dishes and atmosphere, these places have a few things in common: sophisticated interiors that somehow create a quirky European feel, and pricey menus that invariably come with 10% V.A.T. on top.

Also of special note is the restaurant Gorilla in the Kitchen, which is owned by actor Bae Yong-joon. Bae has been known and worshipped as “Yon-sama” by Japanese women since his appearance on the hit Korean TV drama “Winter Sonata,” and his popularity seems to have cemented the restaurant as a must-go destination for Japanese tourists on pilgrimage. Some could actually be seen wandering into Dosan Park after coming out of the restaurant, since the restaurant is located directly in front of the park’s main gate. An accidental visit to the Dosan Memorial Hall inside the park may provide an unexpected history lesson as a result of the Korean Wave.

Evolving Taste

Apgujeong-dong, the first apex of southern Seoul’s luxury triangle, had Rodeo Street, which served as a hangout place for the “Orange Tribe”—a term coined by the local media in the mid-'90s for rich kids spoiled by their nouveau riche parents, sporting fancy cars and “foreign” tastes acquired from their experience living overseas. Then came Cheongdam-dong, which was known for its boutique shops and fancy dining places with a cooler minimalist atmosphere.

The Dosan Park area is to some extent an evolving extension of both areas, in spirit as well as geography. The appearances are far less pronounced, with some of the boutique shops or art galleries almost hiding in corners behind scarcely visible signs. A look over the menus of restaurants and cafés reveals that most items are derived from European cuisines of sophisticated varieties—though a styled-up version of fish and chips selling for almost 20,000 won might be an exception. The trend here is largely aimed at the organic and “wellness,” with a bit of chic added in and some well-loaded purses.

Places to Visit

• Cine City: The nearest multiplex cinema, located in a landmark gray building close to the Dosan Memorial Park. www.icinecity.co.kr
• Horim Art Center: An art center dedicated to promoting the beauty of traditional arts amid urban chic. Currently, Goryeo-era cheongja, or blue porcelain, is on display. Open 10:30am—6pm, except on Mondays. Tel. 542-3523, www.horimartcenter.org
• Gorilla in the Kitchen: “Wellness” restaurant owned by actor Bae Yong-joon. The entire menu is given with detailed calorie counts and ingredient lists. Open 11am—11:30pm, Tel. 3442-1688, www.gorillainthekitchen.co.kr
• My Ssong: Probably the most popular brunch place right now, as countless blogosphere reviews can testify. Burgers, pancakes, and a range of cakes. Open 9am—10pm, Tel. 518-0105.

Location

Written by Seo Dong Shin
Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

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